Re: Polaroid 4x5 Questions

Jason Russell wrote:
> Here's my question. What type of film should I buy for the camera?
> I've seen some out of date B&W film on ebay and I thought that might
> be a cheap way to experiment until I get the hang of it. Is this a
> good idea?
>
> My other question is, do I need to buy film that will produce a
> Positive and Negative image? I'm a little confused with all the
> polaroid film choices. I've also seen some references to film
> coating. Is this something I need to do?

I also have a 4x5 Santa Barbara camera, an older 75mm one that uses a
cork for the shutter.

I've used a lot of Polaroid film with it. I've used Types 52, 53, 54
and 55. You can see examples on my web page. Which film you want to
use depends on what you are trying to do. If you like the Polaroid
prints (or you just want to scan them) you might not want to bother
with the Positive/Negative film.

Some Polaroid films come with a box of plastic tubes that contain
lacquer on a disposable brush. If you do not coat the print it will
fade fairly quickly (you'll get a blank print in days). Coating isn't
difficult, just pass the brush over the print. You probably want to
put the print down on the paper packet so that the lacquer doesn't get
on whatever you put the print down on. The lacquer dries in a few
minutes.

Type 52 is an ISO 400 print film. It's a bit grainy, but very nice.
The print needs to be coated.

Type 53 is ISO 800 speed print film. It's not as nice as either Type
52 or Type 54. The print does not need to be coated.

Type 54 is an ISO 100 print film. It's a good match for Kodak T-Max
100 (TMX) and Kodak Ektachrome 100 Plus. I've mostly used it for
proofing these other films. The print does not need to be coated.

Type 55 is the Positive/Negative film. It's important to know that
the print and the negative are different speeds. You can't get both
of them to come out good from one exposure. Generally the print is
ISO 50 and the negative is ISO 25 or ISO 32. You may want to do some
testing to determine what speed the negative is for your use. The
print needs to be coated.

If you use Type 55 and you want to keep the negative, don't bother
processing the packet in the field. After making the exposure push
the packet back into the holder and remove the holder from the camera.
Make sure the lever on the holder points to L (Load) and press the
button marked R (Release). You can now pull the packet out of the
holder while continuing to hold the R button. Mark the tab on the
packet so you know it has been exposed and put it in a box separate
from the film you are shooting. When you get home prepare the
clearing solution, re-insert the exposed packet into the holder (with
the lever in L position), switch the lever to P (Process) and pull the
packet out. Clear the film according to the instructions.

It can be tricky pulling the packet out without screwing things up.
You may want to practice first. One suggested way to do it is to hold
the film holder so that you can see the film packet. With your left
index finger press and hold the R button. With your thumbs against
the packet push the packet out of the holder. The tricky part is
making sure the metal clip at the end of the packet doesn't hang up on
either the far end of the holder (the R button activates a catch down
there) or on the rollers. Once you can see the metal clip in the
holder's window you can let go of the R button and pull the packet out
by the tab end. Do not press on the chemical pod.

I've given up on the color Polaroid films. They have a lot of color
shift on long exposures (even with a lens). I think they're really
meant for proofing in the studio with flash exposure.

Lately I've been using Kodak TMX and EPP in Readyloads and Polaroid
Type 55. I may drop TMX since it cost about the same as Type 55 and
doesn't include processing.

By the way, you can use the Polaroid 545 series of holders with Kodak
Readyloads and Fuji Quickloads. Be sure to follow the film
manufactures' instructions very carefully. I had a problem with the
older double sheet Readyloads and now use a (older) Kodak Readyload
holder. The new single sheet Readyload packets are supposed to work
better with the Polaroid holder.

It has never occurred to me to buy Polaroid film on ebay. Be careful
with out dated Polaroid film. If the chemical packet dries up you
will get uneven development. I've had this happen to boxes that have
sat in my apartment for a while.

Never freeze Polaroid film. It is safe to put it in the refrigerator.
See the Polaroid instructions for recommended temperatures.

-- 
Brian Reynolds                   | "Knowledge, Sir, should be free to all!"
reynolds@panix.com               |  -- Harcourt Fenton Mudd
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/  |     "I, Mudd"