Really nice image, Zernike. I will check for some 220 rolls today to send
you (just to see how long a photo you can make)
Gregg
At 12:42 PM 1/6/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Gregg,
>Thanks for your suggestion. I have "stitch" them, it works. Thanks.
>With this camera I can record many "period" of time in one roll of film, and
>it is continuately-non stop. I will try 220 film if I can get it (we have to
>special order it here in Hong Kong).
>
>I would like to share the image with you all.
>If you are interesting, you may see how I walk along the beach with my
>pinhole camera at
>
>http://www.zeroimage.com/gallerya/672image/beach.html
>
>Zernike
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 5
> > From: Gregg Kemp <Gregg.Kemp@sas.com>
> > To: "'pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com'" <pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com>
> > Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] Non-stop pinholes
> > Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 13:16:10 -0500
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> > Zernike,
> >
> > One possible solution is to scan the film in sections, then "stitch" them
>together using photoshop or another graphics application. Then you could
>print the complete image using a printer that accepts "banner" paper, for
>example many of the Epson printers print up to 44 inches.
> >
> > Gregg
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Zernike Au [mailto:zernike@zeroimage.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 8:44 PM
> > > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> > > Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Non-stop pinholes
> > >
> > >
> > > Last year I have make a pinhole camera that use the whole 120
> > > film without
> > > framing, i.e. 6 x 72 format (image size). Is anybody have
> > > idea how can I
> > > scan (most of the scanner can scan A4 size) the whole roll of
> > > film or any
> > > idea to make a contact print or color print. I can't find
> > > such long print
> > > paper here in Hong Kong!!! Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks
> > >
> > > Zernike
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Pinhole-Discussion mailing list
> > > Pinhole-Discussion@pinhole.com
> > > unsubscribe or change your account at
> > > http://www.pinhole.com/discussion/
> > >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 13:26:06 -0500
> > From: edwin gendron <egendron@vt.edu>
> > Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Recip failure on long exposures
> > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> >
> > --Boundary_(ID_5QNz/wlB/qGIUSbqAHXhQg)
> > Content-type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=us-ascii
> >
> > Stephen
> > I shoot motion picture (16mm) as well. I had a long talk w/ a kodak
> > rep about reciprocity. No I don't think that they mentioned any
> > remedies for exposures as long as 15 or 30 minutes. Maybe you could
> > find the reciprocity factors for shorter times and see if they
> > "double" the way that F-stops do. I DO think that you could talk to
> > Kodak and get a good rough idea of what to do, based upon
> > shorter-timed exposures. (So if you don't already know this) The
> > Kodak motion pic line is 1-800-621-3456 tell'em you have a tech
> > question.
> > I am an animator and I think my pinhole exposures will be around 3-4
> > minutes long per frame.
> > What do you doing that takes such a long exposure? Time lapse in low
>light?
> > Ed Gendron
> >
> > >. Now that I've got a pinhole still camera, however, I am interested
> > >in scenes that call for 7, 15, even 30 minute exposures before
> > >adjusting for recip. failure. Problem is, as far as I can tell,
> > >neither Kodak or Fuji offer any guidance on exposures of this
> > >length. If anyone's got any info or experience to share, I'd really
> > >appreciate it.
> > --
> > ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> > Edwin Gendron
> > Virginia Tech
> > Residential and Dining Programs Graphics
> > 43 Owens Hall (0223)
> > Blacksburg, Va. 24061
> > (540)231-5398
> > egendron@vt.edu
> >
> > --Boundary_(ID_5QNz/wlB/qGIUSbqAHXhQg)
> > Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
> >
> > <!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
> > <html><head><style type="text/css"><!--
> > blockquote, dl, ul, ol, li { margin-top: 0 ; margin-bottom: 0 }
> > --></style><title>Re: [pinhole-discussion] Recip failure on long
> > exposur</title></head><body>
> > <div>Stephen</div>
> > <div>I shoot motion picture (16mm) as well. I had a long talk w/ a
> > kodak rep about reciprocity. No I don't think that they mentioned any
> > remedies for exposures as long as 15 or 30 minutes. Maybe you could
> > find the reciprocity factors for shorter times and see if they
> > "double" the way that F-stops do. I DO think that you could
> > talk to Kodak and get a good rough idea of what to do, based
> > upon shorter-timed exposures. (So if you don't already know this) The
> > Kodak motion pic line is 1-800-621-3456 tell'em you have a tech
> > question.</div>
> > <div>I am an animator and I think my pinhole exposures will be around
> > 3-4 minutes long per frame.</div>
> > <div>What do you doing that takes such a long exposure? Time
> > lapse in low light?</div>
> > <div>Ed Gendron</div>
> > <div><br></div>
> > <blockquote type="cite" cite>. Now that I've got a pinhole still
> > camera, however, I am interested in scenes that call for 7, 15, even
> > 30 minute exposures<u> before</u> adjusting for recip. failure.
> > Problem is, as far as I can tell, neither Kodak or Fuji offer any
> > guidance on exposures of this length. If anyone's got any info
> > or experience to share, I'd really appreciate it.</blockquote>
> >
> > <div>-- <br>
> > ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~<br>
> > Edwin Gendron<br>
> > Virginia Tech<br>
> > Residential and Dining Programs Graphics<br>
> > 43 Owens Hall (0223)<br>
> > Blacksburg, Va. 24061<br>
> > (540)231-5398<br>
> > egendron@vt.edu</div>
> > </body>
> > </html>
> >
> > --Boundary_(ID_5QNz/wlB/qGIUSbqAHXhQg)--
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 7
> > From: "che lawrence" <che1963@hotmail.com>
> > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> > Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 15:08:00 -0500
> > Subject: [pinhole-discussion] ortho lith film
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> > <html>
> > <DIV>
> > <P>have any of you used ortho lith film? i don't know anything about it
>but heard that it can be used as an alternative to paper. any info on
>exposure times would be helpful. thanks<BR></P></DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get
>your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
>href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 22:35:40 +0100
> > From: Erich <fotair@rz-online.de>
> > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> > Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] ortho lith film
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> > che lawrence wrote:
> >
> > > have any of you used ortho lith film?
> > > i don't know anything about it...
> >
> > Yes, I have used it before with (please pardon me) lens photography.
> > Ilford has one on the market - ISO 80 - which is very comfortable
> > to use in the lab. You can load the film - and later process it in
> > redlight ... while you watch it build up density.
> >
> > You can see one example uploaded in my website:
> >
> > http://www.fotair.de/lithweiher.htm
> >
> > I have used the film as ISO 80 and later processed it in an
> > Agfa paper developer. The print here is processed in lith chemistry.
> >
> > Erich
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 9
> > Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 16:03:15 -0600
> > From: Jeff Mickey <furball@doblin.id.iit.edu>
> > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> > Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Polaroid 500
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 5 Jan 2001, Mike Vande Bunt wrote:
> >
> > > Polaroid 500 film was previously known as "Captiva" film.
> > > (I suspext that the name change came about because the
> > > Captiva camera is no longer being made.) The Joycam uses
> > > an internal mirror so that the lens is at a right angle to the
> > > film plane. As a result, I think that it would probably be best
> > > to cut off most of the "upper" part of the camera (lens, shuter,
> > > mirror, flash) leaving just the film pack holder and the film
> > > ejection / development mechanism. Then just glue a small
> > > box with a pinhole in front of the film plane. And yes, the
> > > 500 in the film name is the ISO speed.
> > >
> > > For those that have not seen the Polaroid Joycam, it is an
> > > integral film camera with a manual (rather than motorized)
> > > film ejection mechanism.
> > >
> >
> > And this is a fine description of what did to make mine.
> > The camera is in two sections , top and bottom, with the film
> > handling mechanism in the bottom half. Making it relitivly easy to
> > convert.The only hassle i had was in trying to preserve the film counter,
> > i failed. This of course leads me to ocasonal exposiourses without benefit
> > of film..:).
> > The film is in fact ISO 640. It responds "reasonably well" to long
> > exposior under daylight, not well at all under tungsten, and surprisingly
> > well under sodium vapor. I don't have any tables for you, i have never
> > worked them out.
> > The only other thing to mention is that since this is an "SX70"
> > type film. It is intended to be exposed "behind" a mirror, if you take out
> > the mirror your images will be flopped, not much of a problem in the age
> > of scanners.
> > jeff
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 10
> > From: "Andy Schmitt" <aschmitt@warwick.net>
> > To: <pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com>
> > Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] ortho lith film
> > Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 17:04:59 -0500
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> > Speaking of different films:
> > Have you (or anyone else) tried the Kodak ortho film (6556 type 3) in
>normal
> > daylight situations?
> > thanks
> > andy
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pinhole-discussion-admin@pinhole.com
> > [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@pinhole.com]On Behalf Of Erich
> > Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 4:36 PM
> > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> > Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] ortho lith film
> >
> >
> > che lawrence wrote:
> >
> > > have any of you used ortho lith film?
> > > i don't know anything about it...
> >
> > Yes, I have used it before with (please pardon me) lens photography.
> > Ilford has one on the market - ISO 80 - which is very comfortable
> > to use in the lab. You can load the film - and later process it in
> > redlight ... while you watch it build up density.
> >
> > You can see one example uploaded in my website:
> >
> > http://www.fotair.de/lithweiher.htm
> >
> > I have used the film as ISO 80 and later processed it in an
> > Agfa paper developer. The print here is processed in lith chemistry.
> >
> > Erich
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Pinhole-Discussion mailing list
> > Pinhole-Discussion@pinhole.com
> > unsubscribe or change your account at
> > http://www.pinhole.com/discussion/
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > Message: 11
> > From: "Kosinski Family" <zinski@telenet.net>
> > To: <pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com>
> > Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] ortho lith film
> > Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 17:55:57 -0500
> > Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
> >
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C07740.C1805800
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > Litho film is made by several manufacturers, usually in sheets, although =
> > there is 35mm roll film out there. Generally speaking, it is about half =
> > the speed of RC papers, so it requires about twice the exposure. Start =
> > with ISO 2.5, or thereabouts.
> >
> > For a pinhole camera with f/250 try 2 1/2 to 3 min as a beginning =
> > exposure time in bright sun. You can usually buy a few sheets from a =
> > small print shop. The 12" x 18" size is great for big negatives & you =
> > can cut it into any smaller size you need.
> >
> > Handling is OK in red safelight (I use a red christmas bulb to save $). =
> > Process in litho developer (2 parts) for high contrast or conventional =
> > B&W paper developer for continuous tones. There is a lot of discussion =
> > about the right dilution for B&W paper developer. Using it at paper =
> > strength makes for fast development of litho film, so a shorter =
> > developing time is indicated. Diluting it gives better control over the =
> > image due to the extended time but the developer will become exhausted =
> > more quickly. We mix B&W print developer twice as strong when making =
> > contact sheets from 35mm negatives on litho film, which gives you quick =
> > B&W slides to send in to exhibits orcompetitions.
> >
> > The emulsion is tender & scratches easily, so treat it gently.
> >
> > Jim K
> > ----- Original Message -----=20
> > From: che lawrence=20
> > To: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com=20
> > Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:08 PM
> > Subject: [pinhole-discussion] ortho lith film
> >
> >
> > have any of you used ortho lith film? i don't know anything about it =
> > but heard that it can be used as an alternative to paper. any info on =
> > exposure times would be helpful. thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
> > -----
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________ Pinhole-Discussion =
> > mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@pinhole.com unsubscribe or change your =
> > account at http://www.pinhole.com/discussion/=20
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C07740.C1805800
> > Content-Type: text/html;
> > charset="iso-8859-1"
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> > <HTML><HEAD>
> > <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> > http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> > <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
> > <STYLE></STYLE>
> > </HEAD>
> > <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Litho film is made by several manufacturers, usually =
> > in=20
> > sheets, although there is 35mm roll film out there. Generally speaking, =
> > it is=20
> > about half the speed of RC papers, so it requires about twice the =
> > exposure.=20
> > Start with ISO 2.5, or thereabouts.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>For a pinhole camera with f/250 try 2 1/2 to 3 min =
> > as a=20
> > beginning exposure time in bright sun. You can usually buy a few sheets =
> > from a=20
> > small print shop. The 12" x 18" size is great for big negatives & =
> > you can=20
> > cut it into any smaller size you need.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Handling is OK in red safelight (I use a red =
> > christmas bulb to=20
> > save $). Process in litho developer (2 parts) for high contrast or =
> > conventional=20
> > B&W paper developer for continuous tones. There is a lot of =
> > discussion about=20
> > the right dilution for B&W paper developer. Using it at paper =
> > strength makes=20
> > for fast development of litho film, so a shorter developing time is =
> > indicated.=20
> > Diluting it gives better control over the image due to the extended time =
> > but the=20
> > developer will become exhausted more quickly. We mix B&W print=20
> > developer twice as strong when making contact sheets from 35mm negatives =
> > on=20
> > litho film, which gives you quick B&W slides to send in to exhibits=20
> > orcompetitions.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>The emulsion is tender & scratches easily, so =
> > treat it=20
> > gently.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Jim K</FONT></DIV>
> > <BLOCKQUOTE=20
> > style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
> > 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> > <DIV=20
> > style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> > black"><B>From:</B>=20
> > <A href=3D"mailto:che1963@hotmail.com" title=3Dche1963@hotmail.com>che =
> >
> > lawrence</A> </DIV>
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
> > href=3D"mailto:pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com"=20
> > =
> > title=3Dpinhole-discussion@pinhole.com>pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com</A>=
> > </DIV>
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, January 05, 2001 =
> > 3:08=20
> > PM</DIV>
> > <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [pinhole-discussion] =
> > ortho lith=20
> > film</DIV>
> > <DIV><BR></DIV>
> > <DIV>
> > <P>have any of you used ortho lith film? i don't know anything about =
> > it but=20
> > heard that it can be used as an alternative to paper. any info on =
> > exposure=20
> > times would be helpful. thanks<BR></P></DIV><BR clear=3Dall>
> > <HR>
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <A=20
> > href=3D"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</A><BR>
> > <P></P>_______________________________________________ =
> > Pinhole-Discussion=20
> > mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@pinhole.com unsubscribe or change your =
> > account=20
> > at http://www.pinhole.com/discussion/ </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
> >
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C07740.C1805800--
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --__--__--
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Pinhole-Discussion mailing list
> > Pinhole-Discussion@pinhole.com
> > http://www.pinhole.com/discussion/
> >
> > End of Pinhole-Discussion Digest
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>Pinhole-Discussion@pinhole.com
>unsubscribe or change your account at
>http://www.pinhole.com/discussion/
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Pinhole Visions at http://www.pinhole.com
Received on Sat Jan 6 08:07:26 2001
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