Re: My book -- finally!

Loris,

Why treat Yupo? What you say is true for most cases, Yupo works well.
However... if you have had students who bring negatives that are blown
out in the highlights, you'll see that by the time the highlights come
in the blacks are toasted and will shed from the Yupo. I like you make
absolutley perfect negatives everytime.<grin> And as you point out, the
edges sometimes loosen and tear a bit. Most of my large work is on Yupo,
16 x 20 and 20 x 24 and I have had only a few problems, mostly slight
tears along the edges which can be spotted out. Also last summer we were
working in 90+ temperature conditions, (we are installing aircon soon!)
and having to put trays of ice water on a mated pair. The heat in the
print room also lowers the stickum factor. Some of the early books say
you can't print in the summer, I think Sandy noted this once. Also
students ( and me too) have a tendency to jiggle the prints too much in
the development tray in order to speed things up and this can cause edge
tear. What I would like is a bigger safety margin for students with
not-so-good negs and less then optimal working conditions. We sell
regularly to outposts of the world. We have shipped platinum kits to
the Antarctica and stuff to Saudi Arabia, though I dare say the Saudis
have air conditioning! I taught a carbon workshop at Julio Galindo's
place in Mexico City in an apartment rooftop laundry room with an 800
watt hotplate for hot water, the water heater long defunct. So, as a
commercial enterprise we try to make these processes as easy and
successful as possible.

Cheers.

--Dick

Loris Medici wrote:
> Hi Richard,
>
> Why do you need to treat yupo? I both used / made tissue on Yupo +
> used it as final support - without any special treatment. And I
> haven't had any problems. Actually I had some shedding at the borders
> (non-image area) but I attribute this to uneven sensitizing in the
> borders of the tissue - because I had to tape the tissue since it was
> very curly and won't stay flat by just pinning the corners down...
>
> I like Yupo very much because:
>
> - it's a pretty stable support, much durable than paper
> - it's easy to use - especially as final support; you don't need to
> pre-coat it with gelatine as with watercolor papers or you don't have
> to fix it before transferring as with s/g papers
> - it's very very cheap compared to artist quality watercolor paper (at
> least here in Istanbul)
> - it's very white + not too much glossy = better apparent sharpness /
> contrast in the finished print
>
> Regards,
> Loris.
>
> Quoting Richard Sullivan <richsul@earthlink.net>:
>
>> ...
>> We are also going to try my failed waxing solution to treat YUPO. YUPO
>> is a bit sensitive to shedding and anything that helps hold the image
>> will be good. We are also looking at using YUPO as a temporary support
>> by waxing it. We are looking at various ways to improve and speed up
>> the process. At some point we may have time to run a test like you
>> asked about.
>>
>> From our experience here YUPO is the favorite support. Canvas is coming
>> in second but I think mostly for the novelty effect. Gordon wants to do
>> a big one on glass, like 30x40. We got the trays but the sink ain't big
>> enough so he's going to build a support outrigger to hold it. We'll see!
>> ...
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Received on Sat Mar 24 07:32:35 2007